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REFLECTIONS ON A GOLDEN AGE

The Return of the Real East African Safari Rally
by Mobile 1 crew


It must be at least two years since the word got out that Mike Kirkland was planning to offer one of the old style Safari Rallies, covering five thousand kilometers and encompassing all three East African countries.

First reaction… write to him and offer to run a control in the Taita Hills. Secondly… try to find more details.

As more information became available, it emerged that this rally would mark the fiftieth anniversary of the original Coronation Safari, run in 1953, as part the celebrations in East Africa to mark the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth.

There are people still around who remember that first rally, even some that took part, and things were simpler in those days. Borrow an extra spare wheel, round up some spanners and an extra fan belt, ask someone to make a few sandwiches, and your team was ready.

There were no complications like service crews, pace notes or helicopter back up.

Over the next few years, the manufacturers became interested, and the rally gradually became professional. Teams of cars were supported by managers; fleets of service barges were deployed, there were cars positioned to pull you out of the mud and chase cars, ready to sacrifice suspension units and radiators to keep the entrant rolling.

Costs rose sharply, and the rally organizers came under pressure to shorten the event. The fans of the original rally watched with regret as the three country bash shrunk to short loops out of Nairobi. Not even the Taita Hills survived the culling of well known competitive sections.

When the original Easter format was altered, to suit the World Rally Championship and the pressure of the FIA, many felt that the Safari Rally had lost all its style and unique flavour.

All these factors ensured that this event, set for the end of 2003, had to attract enormous interest and excitement. A web site was established, allowing those with access to computers to keep up as the list of entries grew.

Michelle Mouton, the lady who shook the world of rallying, when she was given a place in the Audi Quattro team… Jayant Shah with Lofty Drews, Rob Collinge and Anton Levitan.

The regulations insisted that cars would have to be pre-1972, but the models that appeared on the start list were equally interesting. Two 240Z Datsuns, whose lines alone suggested elegance and power, Porsches and Escorts, two VW Beetles, and a Rover V8 ,an Austin Healey3000. There were snorts of derision at the inclusion of a Trabant, the model that achieved designer status when the two Germanys amalgamated. A Trabbie in the Safari? Did someone think this was a Sunday afternoon Treasure Hunt?

The final clincher that made involvement a must was Mike Kirkland arranging Scrutineering on this scribe’s birthday. Some would say just a co-incident. But what better way of meeting old friends, even if they didn’t all bring presents?

The Classic Safari Rally of 2003 gained status when it was announced that it would be graced by the presence of Eric Cecil, known to thousands as “Bwana Safari”.

For those whose East African and Motor Sport history never reached “A” level status, Eric was involved in the introduction of the Skoda, and driving that car from Nairobi to Cape Town and back seemed a good way to get the small Czechoslovakian car talked about.. The car made it and returned to Nairobi just in time to attach itself to the parade to mark Nairobi achieving city status.

So where and when did all this excitement begin?

Eric was talking to friends at a house in Limuru, and the topic was motor sport. Eric suggested to his cousin Neil Vincent that he should take part in an event at the Langa Langa track near Gil Gil. Neil said he saw little point in driving around a boring circuit, but if someone could put together an event that covered East Africa, he would give it his support.

Eric thought this over and put it to the motor sport committee of the Royal East African Automobile Association. This august body huffed and puffed over the proposal, and the final response was discouraging.

Eric went away and built up his ideas. On his return, he offered to organize the event, but it was his suggested title that won over the oldies, “Coronation Safari” had a flair that appealed to the committee. They liked the patriotic tone, but insisted that the REAAA would not get financially involved. Eric then switched to fund raising and got the blessing and support of an oil company and East African Airways.

It was decided that classes would be based on the Nairobi show-room prices, and serious planning got under way.

The first ever Safari Rally at Easter 1953 had 58 starters, all the crews of which were East African based. Each class was set a different average speed. The lowest was 43 mph, an indication of the state of the roads they would face. Soon after the start, torrential rain near Dar es Salaam made a route change necessary, and a quagmire near Voi had some cars stuck for days.

Sixteen cars reached the Nairobi finish line, with another 27 qualified as finishers. The Safari Rally had carved its own niche in East African legend, and its future as an n annual event was assured.

Eric drove a Jaguar in the 1954 event. A mishap with a culvert prevented him from finishing, but he broadcast the rest of the event. The show must go on!

In 1956, Eric drove a specially imported DKW with Tony Vickers. A year later, the same crew was overall winners.

In 1962, Eric Cecil became the chairman of the organizing committee, in which capacity he met every President of the three East African countries. “Bwana Safari” was a worthy title.

And so to the rebirth of this rally, that is followed by millions around the world.

Whitesands Hotel, north of Mombasa, became the gathering point, as crews and their cars, service crews and officials massed days before the start.

Getting the cars here had its complications. One vehicle was unloaded at a port in the Middle East, to the horror of the crew. It reached Nairobi at 1 a.m on the day of the start, and was driven to the Coast with hours to spare.

On Wednesday 10th of December 2003, the 52 cars rolled in convoy into Mombasa in their start order. The start ramp had been set up under the Tusks in Moi Avenue. The crowds arrived in their thousands, drawn by the noise and excitement, with John Vespa at top volume on the sound system..

A few cars were delayed, as highly tuned engines do not like negotiating heavy traffic. They arrived at the end and had to use the pavement to get to their correct position in the start sequence. Car 52 had a more serious problem, they had to go off and seek help elsewhere.

The Datsun 240Z of Rob Collinge and Anton Levitan climbed the ramp, speeches were made, dignitaries introduced and at exactly 09.00, the Safari Rally was under way.

The crowd roared their approval, as the cars struggled through the narrow slot of tarmac, heading down Moi Avenue, and two left turns towards the causeway.

Nearly two hours later, we had sent the last car on its way. We were in the process of rolling up control boards, putting away the clock, when a hot and bothered navigator appeared, gesturing breathlessly at his time card.

“Where is your car?” we asked.

“Down the road!” he gasped. “ We can’t get through the crowd.”

Not the best start to a 5000 km route, stretching over ten days..

We were able to see the middle rankers emerge at Mariakani, after the first competitive section, service crews hovering nervously, in case their skills were required.

At Voi, we turned towards the base of the Taita Hills, a chance to see the leaders go through Chelembwa control. The rally was heading towards their first rest halt at Taita Hills Lodge, while we aimed for Nairobi.

On Day Two, we had the long main road drive to Nanyuki and the comforts of the Mount Kenya Safari Club. The Mobile One Team had a leisurely lunch, and then changed into our approved uniform. We settled into our control area, comfortable chairs, table with white cloth and a flower arrangement, under a smart tent, just a few meters from the arched door. This was more like it! William Holden and Stephanie Powers would have approved.

The gaps between arriving cars got bigger, then rain, strong wind and a rapidly plunging temperature. Layers of clothing were applied, and a new experience… shivering so much it was hard to write in the details on cards and documents.

We were told that Car21, Fryer and Barton had crashed, followed by a second message that Chris was on his way to hospital. Twenty minutes later, the Peugeot 504 booked in, car and crew unscarred.

It became clear that our chance of enjoying the luxury of dinner at MKSC was slipping away, so we asked for soup and rolls to be delivered to our control table. Finally we closed at 23.10, with the extra complication of the next morning’s Out Control now sited some 17 km down the road. It seemed that some neighbours were not appreciating the noise.

Another early start to get to our muddy patch, first car away at 07.00, then back to Mount Kenya. Our footwear had converted to balls of black cotton soil, so we offered to leave shoes at reception, thus sparing the wall-to-wall carpeting.

Top management would not hear of it… perhaps they feared undarned socks. “If we let you take your shoes off, I will have to fire the carpet cleaning squad. You don’t want to cause unemployment, surely?”

We settled for a very English breakfast, and then headed for Eldoret, our next control point.

We were able to follow the rally cars through the town, leading us towards the Du Toit farm, where a tented city had been erected to house the Safari overnight. 146 tents to accommodate crew and official, interspaced by toilets and showers, plus marquees for control, rally office, communications, dining room and bar. The UN would have felt at home.

Legend had it that we were at an altitude of 7000 feet, so thick blankets were appreciated. I hope someone used the canvas showers, I stayed well away.

We were in position at the control tent by 05.30, coffee was supplied and we sent the cars on their way. We took breakfast in shifts, just in case a latecomer needed attention.

Then we were on our way again. Main road from Eldoret to Nakuru, through Njoro and some 30 kilometers of ruts, washaways and mud holes. The early veterans of the Safari would have felt at home. A lunch of coke and chips at Narok.

By 4 pm we had arrived at our control site, the grounds of a primary school near the gates of the Masai Mara. Henry Baronet had arrived and was motivating his team of workers, putting up fencing, lengths of orange tape and the control table and tent, which had an interesting filigree appearance.

There was no hurry, the Safari cars were heading for the delights of Uganda. That night we were accommodated at Mara Simba, a haven of peace, not a rally car within hundreds of kilometers.

Sunday should have been a “lie in”, but habit woke me up at 4 am.

After breakfast, we transferred to Mara Serova, but the excitement of the day was being able to hand in a rapidly growing mound of washing.

We met Henry at the control and looked over all the hard work carried out by his team. Back to the lodge for a beer and lunch, then get ready to book the cars into the ”Mara In” control.

Collinge was still leading, and we were busy until 9 pm. Something at dinner did not agree with the system, and I did my impression of a yo-yo all night.

The rally was at its halfway point, and both cars and crews were getting that worn look.

The Trabant arrived with two service mechanics perched on the front wings, Motor Show style. The car had lost some steering ability; only right hand turns were possible. As the school gates needed a left hand turn, a multi point shuffle was employed to get to the control table

Monday was the official Rest Day for all concerned, just as well… I wasn’t able to go anywhere. The lodge doctor administered a fine medley of pills, bombs and capsules; food did not seem to be an option.

Day Seven saw the cars leave the comforts of the Mara Lodges, with the first car away at 8 am. Eric Cecil was there to flag every car away, and enlivened the proceedings no end.

From there we had a long drive across the Rift Valley, seeing Longonot and the Suswa Satellite Station from new angles. We made our way to a point where we were able to watch the cars tackle the competitive section on the Delamare Estate. Later we heard that Shekhar Mehta was running a control in the area..the rally equivalent of getting Sir John Guilgood to play Widow Twankie in the village hall pantomime.

Our stop over that night was at the Safari Park Hotel, more luxury. At last a break from being allocated a room as far from reception as possible, and a suite on my own.

The hotel did us proud, a formal dinner, a slick cabaret, and lots of old friends to talk to. Prem and Paura Choda, Sylvia King and Ann Taieth, most of the Fryer family. Every one went into “Wenwe” mode, and bold tales of old flew. Everyone talked… I hope a few listened as well.

On the morning of Day Eight, I was a mere spectator, but went down to the control to see the cars on their way. There was concern aver the tail enders getting caught up in Nairobi’s morning rush hour, so the start interval was reduced to 60 seconds.

We had breakfast, then set off for the road south for the border at Namanga and Arusha. A big banner erected by Arusha Motor Sports Club welcomed the crews and mobile officials to Tanzania .. a nice touch that!

The border posts swarmed with Safari officials, and we were rushed through with slick efficiency. The hungry hordes of money changers didn’t get a look in.

We saw a few rally cars as we headed for Arusha. There was a slight delay while we hunted for the Novotel Hotel, it was cunningly disguised as the Mount Meru.

We hurried through lunch, then set up our control at the entrance to the building, assisted by local Club members. The cars had just completed a long transport section, so they were well before the time they wanted on their cards.

For a second time we watched a young lady go through a series of emotion as she waited for her father’s Puegeot 504 to arrive. Elation… concern…apprehension... despair, and back to total delight when Car 21 pulled in. We were entertained by tribal drummers and dancers, who mysteriously had a two minute warning before the car appeared at the gate. Telepathy? Or a well hidden hands free mobile phone under all the feathers and finery? We will never know.

At 2 am, I could still hear service cars hammering and welding in the car park; six stories below my balcony… three hours later, engines were being run up. I hope all the hotel residents were rally fans.

I had breakfast with Doughty and Taylor, the tribal elders, then watched the cars as far as John Lloyd Junior’s Escort being dispatched.

We had cars passing us as we headed east past Moshi, where Mount Kilimanjaro filled the horizon on our left.

We stopped briefly at a Flying Finish control near the North Pare Mountains and watched the top cars at speed.

A recent visit to that corner of north east Tanzania gave me my first look at Old Korogwe. The nearest thing I had ever seen to an abandoned gold rush town, a shop with a Philips Radio sign above the door, another a former Hardware Mart, now occupied by families.

I told one of our mobile team that he had to see this relic, at which point he remembered running the control for the 1953 Coronation Safari in front of the police station. He had traveled up from Tanga, and was stranded there for days, triggering a severe reprimand from his shipping agency boss. We walked across the road, and there the sign was visible under a sagging tin roof. “Korogwe Hotel”. Yet another link with the original event, 50 long years ago.

We had a brief chat with the controllers, including the son of an old Mombasa friend, now teaching at my son’s Gil Gil boarding school. Even Doughty and Taylor appeared.

It was now time to head for Tanga, where the control had been set up in the grounds of a school. I was delighted to see that the ordered banner had been strung between two trees.

Just before the start, Coastweek had revealed that Lofty Drews had been born in Tanga, and if all went wel that far, then he would be back after a twenty five year gap. Too good a chance to miss. The banner read “WELCOME HOME, LOFTY… ALL IS FORGIVEN”.

A great success, Lofty had his photograph taken in front of it, and it will be taken back to his Australian farm. What will the sheep make of it all?

Tanga put out all the stops that evening, a grand dinner at the Yacht Club, and every room in every hotel booked for the passing caravan.

Friday 19th December was the final day of this epic journey. Up at 4.15, shave and shower, a quick breakfast, then a lift in the official matatu to get to the control. We had amplified music, dignitaries and speeches, with the lead car away at 06.00.

As soon as the last car was processed, we closed shop, the Lofty banner was furled and we headed 7 km up the road towards Hola Hola, where the rally would emerge after the second competitive section of the day. Officially Mobile One was now through all its duties.

Amboni was operating as a Flying Finish control, so we parked to watch the fun. We saw the Datsun 240Z of Collinge and Levitan through, then a radio message that changed everything. The Escort of John Lloyd and Paul Armandini had crashed on the earlier competitive section between Tanga and Muheza. Two people in Mobile One were close relatives, so they had to head for Tanga to help.

Later we heard that neither of the crew was hurt, even though the car had suffered a multiple roll, followed by end-over-end cartwheels, finally catching fire. At that point, Lloyd was in seventh position, and with just some 250 km left, he had completed 93 % of the Safari. A sad ending to so much hard work and physical effort.

I completed my journey to the Leisure Lodge Beach Hotel finish with the Route Opening car, driven by Mark Jennings. Another experience to file away in fading memory banks.

The borders posts at Horo Horo and Lunga Lunga were ready for any vehicle displaying a Safari sticker, we didn’t even get out of the car!

Shortly after 11 am on Friday 19th December, Rob Collinge and Anton Levitan swept into the Leopard Beach control. Flags waved, the crowd cheered and the official Datsun team photographer burst into tears.

Over the next three hours another forty cars came in, every crew member wreathed in smiles. Once again, “Bwana Safari” was there to welcome and applaud every crew.

When all were in, the cars descended a steep track to the beach, where the ramp had been erected, together with flags, and bunting and a tent for the important ones. The cars had a final sprint to the ramp, champagne was sprayed on the unsuspecting, and endless photographs were taken.

Several cars were bogged down in the soft sand, but a tractor was available, thus denying the lookers on the chance to earn some welcome push money, a very old Safari tradition.

That evening, crews ,their mechanics, officials and rally groupies gathered for dinner and Prize Giving. Scenes of great joy and triumph, and it seemed that the two brave souls in the Trabant received the loudest ovation.

Eric Cecil thanked Mike Kirkland and his planning team for their success. He went on to say that one of his proudest possession was a blazer, displaying the East African Safari Rally logo, together with his unofficial title.

“It is time for that blazer and title to be passed on to the new office holder… Mike Kirkland is the new ‘Bwana Safari’”.

The evening was long and liquid, and before bedtime, the slot for the next Safari Classic was the main subject of debate. 2006 seemed to be the favourite, but by common agreement, no one suggested it to Mike. We all know he will run it again; we just have to let him get used to the idea!

A wonderful event, enjoyed by entrants, officials and public alike. I now know the meaning of “classic”.

To avoid accusations of choosing the wrong word, I looked up ‘classic’. The dictionary available on the computer explains the word as..



Belonging to the highest order or class.

Serving as the established model or standard, being of lasting significance or worth. Enduring.

Simple and harmonious.

Having historical associations


Yes, that describes precisely what happened in East Africa over ten days in the month of December 2003.

I have booked a place for the next one !